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I also have a small leak in my black tank. I got under there and found that it is an old repair that is leaking. Looks like they used the ABS repair kit I have seen on line but did not let it set up before using it. Anyway, I could not find anything that would adhere to ABS. A neighbor tried all the “as seen on TV” stuff and none of it would hold. He finally tried gorilla glue and it worked like a charm. Now his was a crack in the line to the dump valve, not a leak in the tank itself. But it worked so I decided to try it. It did work for about two weeks but I noticed the leak is back. Before I give up on it, I am going to re-coat it with the glue again. I think it will eventually hold. So if yours is a crack, I would try that first. :good:
BTW, I have had some experience with MDI (Methylene diphenyl diisocyanate), the active ingredient in gorilla glue. Had to use a release agent with it or it would stick our small press closed. That is how well it bonds to metal…. or anything else.
July 1, 2018 at 3:48 pm in reply to: Why We Are Buying a New Truck Versus Fixing Big Blue #52351
- This reply was modified 2 years, 9 months ago by Walt & Vicky Davis.
I know you made the right choice. You may remember me telling you about the ’97 f250 I had a few years ago. What a money pit. My truck’s Achilles heel was the glow plug system. Seems like they never got it right on the early trucks.
As to pricing old blue, in u.s. dollars, all I can say is shoot high. People are still nuts about them. I put mine on Craig’s list for $2500 (I wanted a quick sale) and had 5 offers that day. Ended up selling to a guy a 100 miles away who restored them and sold them to wildfire fighter companies as water tankers. Point is, there seems to be a market for these old work horses as snowplow, and other specialty applications. Oh, and the teenage boys love them too 🙂 I’d start at max blue book and see what the interest is.
- This reply was modified 2 years, 10 months ago by Walt & Vicky Davis.
If you have a hitch, you have your choice of 5th wheels – just make sure nobody’s home first! 🙂
thanks for the info.
As long as I am at it, there is an addendum to this story concerning the electrical. When I got the unit in and all hooked up, I had no power to the fridge. I checked the 2 fuses on the circuit board and they were good. Then I realized I only had 8.96 VDC coming to the fridge. It needs at least 10 to light the panel board when it is initially started although 14 is optimum. I went to the fuse panel and did find a 15 amp automotive fuse for the furnace had blown. I replaced it and the fridge worked fine. Somehow that blown fuse had halved my DC voltage to the fridge. If I hadn’t remembered that on some schematics I had seen the furnace label listed as “furn/fridge”, I probably would not have made the connection. 🙂
yes, the unit came charged and ready to go. One thing I learned though was that it is important to take a picture of the info on the cooling unit and email it to whomever you are buying the unit from and get them to confirm you are ordering the right one. Case in point, my unit had an LBX on the end of it. The fellow at RV cooling unit warehouse said there was a period in Dometic’s past when they were relocating their plant and had a company in China make their units. So they are slightly different. There are other little things too. Bottom line, whatever you order will probably need some slight mods as far as mounting holes and such. All in all, it was a pleasant experience changing it out. Certainly within the capabilities of anyone who can maintain an RV and certainly not worth the $600+ an RV tech will charge to put it in.May 30, 2018 at 1:22 pm in reply to: Best 5th wheel (in your opinion) for full time living? #52031
got an amazon link to that combo, Dan?
….when out in the furnace there arose such a clatter, I sprang from my bed to see what got splattered 🙂November 19, 2017 at 7:55 pm in reply to: Travel Trailer Boon docking – need suggestions on placing everything #48835
Thanks, Kent and Stephen, The weight that far back is definitely concerning to me. I think i will have to find a way to make it work where it is.
That was pretty cool. But I wonder if a pressure gage in line with the hose coming from your tanks would not also work. Then you could just turn off the main tank and if the pressure on the gage drops, you have a leak. Of course, it would not tell you where the leak is….but it would be an easy way to check every time you set up at a new camp.