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Last season, we used Medipac, as we were turned down by several companies. Our premium was $4000.00, $1000.00 deductible, as Sue had several pre-existing conditions. This season, we couldn’t get insurance as we both now have health issues, and Sue’s health conditions have worsened. We are pretty well stuck in Alberta unless we we want to risk what we have left.
Thankfully, we have clear title on our house!
Nasty spot to get at. Are you planning on dropping the tanks for the repair? Eternabond may be an option.
I got one from the kids for my birthday. It’s worked great for rice, roasts, stew and reducing chicken and turkey for stock. It’s kind of large, but we brought it south with us this winter and it has been a great addition to our kitchen.
I’ll take it as a compliment that you think I bought the pantry! I built it to fit the space, so it’s a custom fit. The idea came from Andy Baird’s website. The link shows the dimensions he used and a materials list.
It looks like it is a substitute for butyl tape, as it is butyl based. Maybe for ease of removal at a future date when the skylight or vent housing cracks? I would imagine a skylight that had Dicor used under the lip would be almost impossible to remove.
Lessons learned..
ask Ray
patience is a virtue
make sure your freshwater tank is FULL
I would add “Never believe your tank monitors!”
Did you check your city water connection outside to see if it is dribbling? There’s a one way check valve in there.
Amazon is very good with defective product, just let them know and they will replace it. A lot of the time they don’t want the broken one back.
If there is an air leak on the suction side the pump won’t cycle off, learned that one the hard way. Have you purged all the air out of the water system?
I ordered the hose kit as well. I also relocated the pump, it used to be under our sink wasting the whole bottom of the cabinet. Relocated it beside the furnace (close to where it was originally) and extended the line. It’s now closer to where the suction line enters the trailer. The accumulator mounted on the wood that supports the hot water tank. Now, all my mechanical systems are in one area. I did buy pex tools and clamps and extended the one line, not the easiest spot to work in.
Your unit will have a different set of circumstances, of course!
I installed the same accumulator in our trailer, SIGNIFICANT noise reduction and cycling. You get about 8 oz of water out of the tap before the pump cycles in.
Sounds like a bulb/ground issue on the truck or trailer. When a turn/stop filament loses a ground, the power from the running lights can pass through the stop/turn filament and produce the effect you describe.
I don’t have a 7 pin diagram handy, but there are lots available on the net. Could just be a corroded socket on one of your trailer tail/stop lights.
I’ve had very good results with the King Jack antenna. I have one on my house (rural Alberta), and the other on the trailer. Very small and compact, it is a directional unit. I get all the Edmonton (40 miles) and Red Deer (55 miles) stations.
I’ve uploaded the pictures of the pantry.
Attachments:
You are still going to need a generator for the occasions when you get several gray days in a row, or if there are hot days and you need the AC. Large exhaust fans in the vents can help reduce AC usage, but most of them pull 4-5 amps each.
I believe a battery monitor and a volt/ammeter should be the first investment, audit your actual usage under a variety of conditions, learn what each component actually draws, how much does your furnace run per hour under different temperature conditions. Fifth wheels tend to have much larger internal volumes of air than taildraggers, and generally have larger furnaces with larger electrical draws.
RV’s tend to vary quite a bit in construction, plus personal habits of the owner, ie sleeping with windows open, vents up, cool sleepers, hot sleepers and so on, makes a power audit a necessity to determine what your actual size configuration will be.
