John

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  • in reply to: Solar and RV battery charger #32952
    John
    Participant

    Eddie will forget more than I’ll ever know about this stuff. Good luck in finishing up your system. Make sure you research how to maintain your batt bank. Bringing it up to “float” every 3-4 days or so with a generator may be important.

    in reply to: Solar and RV battery charger #32947
    John
    Participant

     

     

    • This reply was modified 7 years, 8 months ago by John.
    in reply to: Solar System Equipment #31848
    John
    Participant

    JJ,

    170 watts per panel! I both admire and appreciate your greed ūüôā If you’re taking up valuable real estate, why not max it out.

     

     

    in reply to: Solar Planning #30873
    John
    Participant

    The wire size should be taken off the chart based on distance and load. I agree that getting your voltage up using series/ parallel makes sense in the context of an MPPT controller, which needs a lot of headroom to function optimally. Also, the amps will be lower and this reduce wire size requirements. Some will say parallel is better, because of shading issues. However, no much shade in the desert, but shading is an issue you must be aware of if you configure in series. Having said that, the higher voltage and MPPT controller combo is better. Some parallel applications might be better off not using the MPPT controllers, because the headroom voltage is inadequate to get the MPPT’s benefits.

    Northern Arizona Wind and Sun has a decent forum. If you call them on the phone, however, they tend to oversize everything because they are in the sales business, but the forum is useful. For example, the add the panel labels and divide by 12 (if a 12 volt batt system) and use that to size your amps for your controller. This is fine if you want a 25% cushion, but to tell you that this is the minimum is suspect at best, IMHO.

    I would try to use higher amp panels if you can. If you’re taking up real estate on your roof, why not at least use a 180 panels and worry less about future upgrades? Grape sells some decent little 180’s. I just put 6 of those on my roof.

    in reply to: Dealership solar install issues #28713
    John
    Participant

    sounds good. eddie will fix you up.

    in reply to: Dealership solar install issues #28708
    John
    Participant

    perhaps you might want to carry some blocks, etc., to get more level. I had the depot guy cut me 12″ pieces off a 2 x 12 + I carry some 6′ pieces to put under both axles if needed. if you’re out of level bad enough to feel the need to pull the emergency switch, you may be out of level enough to damage your refrigerator, which needs to remain generally level (assuming it’s an LP burning one).

    assuming you’re reading 5 amps correctly, this is a problem that need diagnosis and correction. before anything else, go up and make sure that the panels are clean. maybe clean glass off with something. then, make sure no shading is occurring from your own roof equipment, like antenna or AC units, etc., during the¬†time you’re reading the display.

     

    in reply to: Dealership solar install issues #26952
    John
    Participant

    [quote quote=26949]

    According to the display on the controller, it is charging between 1.5 and 3.0 amps depending on clouds. Indirect sun and partial shade. Panels cannot be angled ‚Äď something I discovered after the fact. The dealership explained that these panels do not need to be angled (something I am skeptical of)

    You should be seeing much more than that off of 300 watts in direct sun. As a reference, my 400 watts array right now is producing over 20 amps of charge during the midday sun not tilted. [/quote]

    Cap, extrapolating Ray’s¬†out put onto yours, you should be looking at around 16 amps on your controller. You mention shade. Dude, ANY shade kills your output. Are you saying your in some shade. Even a golf ball size shade spot is very bad. Can you move into full sun, then see the result?

     

    in reply to: Dealership solar install issues #26941
    John
    Participant

    Might make sense to figure out when and for how long to run your generator so you don’t damage your batteries by drawing them down more¬†than¬†half their capacity.¬†As Ray says, a meter would help. If you can’t swing a meter financially at this time,¬†then google whatever you need to understand how to use a cheap voltage meter and your battery manufacturer’s specifications to measure the batts level of charge. Ultimately, you need to figure out what’s going in and coming out of the batts and fill that deficit with a generator PRIOR to letting the batts get below 50%. Or, stop using power until the solar brings the batts back up.

    I’m new to this myself. If you got about 90 amp hours on a sunny day coming in from the array and 45 going out during the night, you’ll have to live off¬†what’s left.

    in reply to: Inverter install #26253
    John
    Participant

    Just curious, what did the dealer want to install it?

    in reply to: Inverter install #26249
    John
    Participant

    Hi CaptnRob,

    I’m looking to put some solar on my rig and wouldn’t try to install the stuff myself, but you seem to have experience. I wouldn’t rely on anything from a forum on a life safety issue like this. One good source is Jack Mayer’s web site, where he details the electrical options on the inverter and how same would funtion with transfer switches and your existing panel/shore power. I will say that, unless your rig’s physical layout precludes it, you don’t necessarly need to install new recepts IF you can use a sub panel and extend the circuits from your main panel into that¬†new sub panel, then¬†hook the inverter up to the sub panel. This¬†is a broad overview, but I’d discourage an¬†“in-line” inverter install.¬†A more¬†proper way is to use a sub panel, as Jack describes. Not all trailers are the same and sometimes physicality dictates some options.

    I’d read Jack’s site, then hire Eddie to install your inverter. I saw where you were conversing with Eddie.

     

    in reply to: Rolling to Alaska in RV 2016; Whose coming? #24998
    John
    Participant

    LOL…Yes, just saw a video on the hyderization process! That will be both a lay (or fall) down and lay over for sure. That’s the tallest shot I’ve seen since my 20s!

    in reply to: Rolling to Alaska in RV 2016; Whose coming? #24996
    John
    Participant

    Thanks Lauren.

    Route is not certain. Several folks here have posted their routes. http://www.rvnetwork.com/index.php?showtopic=121259

    Most agree with you that the Cassie is a little harsh. I think I’ll take a more easterly approach.

    Good info on the shopping. But if the world keeps using the US as a cash safe haven, I guess the exchange will be good up there this trip. I’ll still be rolling around Alaska in 2017, as I’m wintering in Seward. If I’ve thawed out, give a shout!

     

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