- This topic has 18 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 6 years, 6 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
See Full Blog Post – http://www.loveyourrv.com/bogart-sc2030-cc-and-trimetric-tm2030-rv-installation/
In the video, I install a Bogart SC2030 charge controller and Trimetric TM2030-RV battery system monitor into my Keystone Cougar fifth wheel trailer.
To make it work, I also install a 500 amp shunt, battery temperature sensor, and some data wires between the controller and monitor.
The pieces will be incorporated into my solar system which includes 4 100 watts Renogy solar panels and 4 Interstate 6 volt batteries, plus a 1000w pure sine wave inverter.
Once the pieces are all installed I go through some of the basic setups for the charge controller using the Trimetric TM2030-RV and demo a few of the readouts like voltage, total current, solar current and battery temp.
Hey Ray, good video! I watched it tonight, good thing you have the K-9 supervisor to give you pointers on installation and set-up, and still licking the BBQ! Ha!! Ha!!
Good Job!
Happy Trails…Pal!!!
[quote quote=19944]Hey Ray, good video! I watched it tonight, good thing you have the K-9 supervisor to give you pointers on installation and set-up, and still licking the BBQ! Ha!! Ha!! Good Job!
Happy Trails…Pal!!! [/quote]She is a tireless worker. :Winking:
Ray I just watched your video on the TRI-METRIC TM -2030RV. I had a RV tech. Install it for me and when I check my AMPS it reads 426. What’s up with that? I don’t have solar so im only using it now to monitor my batteries. I do have a Cummings 2500 LP gen. that I use to charge my batteries at the moment. Did he hook something up wrong?
Thanks for your assistance.
PS hope to see you on the stand this summe.
Cheers
Hey Bob, I assume he installed a shunt for the current sense wires. Have a look at the p11 setting and make sure it’s set for the right shunt value.
http://www.bogartengineering.com/wp-content/uploads/docs/TM-2025%20Users%20Instructions9-11-12.pdf
Thanks Ray, I did check it as I have the 500 shunt and it is set for that.
it appears that the amps are coming down abit. But still ant see why it was so high. I never got the 0.01 that showed in your vedio.
Hows the TM SC2030 CC working out? Also why did you change your batteries from Trojan T105?
Bob, I’m on full hookups right now and my battery amps shows +0.3 seems normal since they are fully charged and just float mode.
Maybe your P4 setting is set to show Watts instead of Amps?
P4 WATTS or AMPS choice A Pr= WATTS, A=Amps Chooses whether AMPS or WATTS shows up on the Primary display, just after “B1 volts”. If you choose AMPS, then WATTS shows on the secondary display. And vice versa.
The Trimetric and SC203o combo is really nice. love it. Great combo for a small system. I think it’s a great bang for the buck as far as getting a very customizable system.
I switched to Interstates as they were a bit cheaper and the ones in my truck have performed so well. Thought I would give them a try.
Hey Ray, maybe Bob’s RV Tech did not program his 2030RV for the right set points or battery bank size? Or possibly a negative wire from a load in the system on the battery bank side of the shunt?
Happy Trails…Pal!!!
Ray,
Thank you for your informative articles on your Cougar 5th wheel. I have read all of your posts on your solar from the beginning 200 watt system to the more recent complete review of your 500 watt system. I have even watched the 3 Wyoming videos. I am impressed with the care you go through on the install and your suburb documentation and writing skills.
We have an 11 month old Cougar 24 foot 5th wheel. It’s sitting at Mike Thompsons RV service yard in Fountain Valley CA, waiting for some warranty work, before the warranty runs out this month. It has been sitting there for over 4 weeks now and they have not even looked at it.
When I get it back, I am installing solar.
If you were starting from scratch on solar now on your rig, would you do anything differently?
On a different topic, I am worried about my steps after reading about your problem. I could add to the list of final warranty request, but doubt the tech would be able to see anything without a lot of removal like you did.
Thank you for your input.
Chris
Hi Chris, you’re welcome.
I don’t know if I’d change much. It’s just about right for our needs and works well. Best thing you can do is install a battery monitor first so you can get an idea of your power usage before designing a system.
I’d have them at least crawl under the stairs with a good flashlight and inspect the metal for any cracks.
Cheers! Ray
Ray,
Thanks again for well written articles on solar panels, controllers, batteries, ect.
I have two more quick questions, would you run your wires down through that same vent pipe cover (with the exception of the second pair getting stuck)? I am only running 2 – 10 gauge. Before reading your articles, I had been thinking of drilling a hole in that vent pipe just above the roof line and another hole in the pipe where comes into the sink cabinet. I was going to run a fish wire up to pull the wires down and out at the bottom. I was going to use silicon to seal the openings on the vent pipe holes. After seeing the Wyoming video, what do you think of mounting a box like he did? I would only need a single gang one to use as a pass through.
Doing your install again, would you mount your panels like they did in the Wyoming video?
Thank you,
Chris
Sounds like it should work OK. The junction box is a good idea especially for installs with lots of panels or if you’re looking to expand in the future, just have to make sure it is weatherproof.
I’d mount the panels the same. The cost of the tilts, are about the same as adding another panel unless you can make your own. Plus I like the simplicity. If I was the type to stay in one spot for months at a time I might think different, but we move often and only boondock about 4 months of the year.
Ray,
Thanks again for your advice on our Cougar 5th wheel.
While waiting several weeks for warranty work at the dealer, because of your article, I was able to add a check for the fold out steps. I am told that they did put in some reinforcing metal. I have not gotten the rig back yet and not sure if I will be able to see what they did anyway if anything.
On the return trip from our last trip our running lights stopped working while underway (pin # 7 had a short). My guess is one of the cheap squeeze connectors came loose and the wire was making contact with the aluminum frame. After several week of my rig sitting on their lot with nothing being done, the short mysteriously went away. This is one I will probably solve on my own.
On pick up day for my rig, I had them back one of their trucks up to show me the lights were working, so that I would not blow the fuse on my truck. While under the tongue area of the rig, I noticed that there was a half inch gap on the corner where the cap rolls over to the flat area. There were no visible signs of damage to the rig to cause this separation. The service writer was anxious to get me out there and sent a guy up to do a band aid repair. He pulled the gasket back and you could see where two screws were sheared off. He could not remove the remaining screws. He started trying to pull the lower separated panel back up with sheet metal screws in fiberglass to fiberglass. I stopped him, because any torque or movement of the trailer would surely undo his band aid efforts. Interestingly enough the service writer thought there might be some stress from the jacks.
I have read your article on the jack motor issue (thank you). I have been doing research on end cap separation and 5th wheel jack motor stress ect. On interesting thing that did come up was the use of a fork lift to move the rigs around the lot. There is a high probability of these yard guys not moving your jacks up and hitting high spots, curbs ect while moving the rig around the yard. One guy even observed them slowing down by lowering the rig and using the jack stands as brakes.
Do you have any insight into why this Cougar cap all of a sudden appears to have stress and is separating?
Thank you,
Chris
Chris, Here is what caused my intermitant running light problem a few years ago – http://www.loveyourrv.com/finally-i-solved-the-case-of-the-intermittent-trailer-running-lights/
Ya, my jacks failed not long after having it in for wheel beaerings and brake check, they used a fork lift to move kit.
I’d make sure to have the frame checked for cracked welds, maybe that is why the fiberglass cap is flexing so much.
Ray,
Thank you for the running light tip!! I am anxious to get my rig back from the dealer and check out that wire coming across the front storage area. I will remove the running light fuse on my truck so as to not blow it again while driving the rig home.
You would think that Keystone would want distribute some kind of service bulletin to their dealers with defect corrections like this one and to improve their manufacturing to prevent these things from happening in the first place. Our rigs are about 5 years apart in age and it will likely be the same defect.
I am waiting to see what the dealer says is the cause sprung cap. Do you think they would admit liability for their forklift lot boys? They claim that Keystone does not pay them enough for warranty work which is why my rig is now going on 7 weeks waiting for some simple repairs.
When will you be in Southern California again? We would like to buy dinner for you and your wife.
Thank you,
Chris
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.